Unveiling the Palette: Materials for Gouache Jewelry Drawing - Part 2

Hey, everyone! In the first blog on this topic, I spilled the beans on the paints, paper, rulers, and templates I use. As promised, here is the part two where I'll share the rest of my favorite materials for drawing jewelry in this blog. We'll chat about the brushes I can't go without and spill the tea on my go-to pencil and more. So, let's dive right in!

1. Variety of Brushes

When it comes to brushes, it seems you can never have too many. I confess, I've also fallen into the trap of accumulating quite a collection over the years. But interestingly, I find myself relying on just two or three.

My most cherished brushes, the ones I use the most, are the 'Isabey Kolinsky Series 6227 Watercolour Brush in size 4', the 'Raphaël kolinsky france 8404 brush size 1 and the 'Series 7 Kolinsky Sable Brush - Miniature Painting Brush - Round size 3'. Within these 3 brands, I have multiple sizes. I have to say that the Isabey Kolinsky brushes hold a special place in my artistic toolkit. If ever asked what I'd take with me to a deserted island, it would unquestionably be my Isabey Kolinsky brush.

Isabey Kolinsky

Raphaël® 8404 Kolinsky

Series 7

Da Vinci

Brushes can really put a dent in your budget, especially considering that some of them can be pretty pricey. I know the Isabey Kolinsky and the Series 7 brushes can be on the high end cost-wise. That's why I think the Da Vinci brushes are a solid alternative that won't break the bank. However, I have to admit, my Isabey Kolinsky brushes tend to last way longer, and I personally find them more enjoyable to work with. So, it's a bit of a trade-of, you might want to consider if going for a slightly less expensive option is the best fit for you. No matter which brushes you decide to buy, ensure they have a very fine tip but, at the same time, can hold a lot of paint, having a bigger body. I find that this setup works best for me because I don't have to keep going back for more paint after every first, second, or third brushstroke. The larger body also ensures that the color on the brush lasts longer. With very fine brushes that don't hold much paint, you end up frequently going back to your palette, risking the paint mixing with other colors and not having the right color shade you need. Some people might think that brushes with a bigger body can't create fine lines, but if you invest in a good-quality brush, that's often not the case. It's the best of both worlds!

2. Pencil and Eraser

When it comes to pencils, the options are plenty with various types and brands to choose from. Yet, in the end, personal preference plays a big role in selecting a pencil, and it's crucial to use the one that suits you best. For me, the 'Staedtler technical pen', paired with the 'Staedtler Mars Carbon refill size 2.0 mm in 2B', gives me the best results when drawing. I have been using this pencil for many years, going back to when i used to goldsmith full time and had to draw technical drawings. To keep the pencil sharp, I use the 'Staedtler Mars pencil sharpener' designed for the 2.0 mm refills.

As for erasing those inevitable wonky lines, I've found that a simple malleable eraser does the trick. Remember, discovering the right tools that work for you is the key to bringing your artistic visions to life.

Staedtler Mars Carbon refill

Staedtler technical pen 2MM

3. Water Containers and Palette

Water containers often don't receive the attention they deserve in the drawing process, and I confess I've been guilty of overlooking their importance. However, the lack of clean water has posed challenges, especially when transitioning for example from drawing emeralds to diamond pave. A situation arises where the water becomes tinted with a hint of green, affecting the whiteness needed for the pave. We want to avoid any unintended color shifts.

To tackle this, I suggest having two water containers or glasses. It might seem like a small detail during your drawing setup, but it makes a big difference. This ensures you always have clean water on hand, preventing any unwanted color mixing and keeping your colors true, especially when working with various gemstones and metals.

When it comes to palettes, I like to keep it simple with a small ceramic plate. I add the colors I need for my artwork on this plate, keeping in mind that the amount of paint needed is usually quite small. I intentionally avoid squeezing out too much paint. While some artists prefer large palettes where all colors can be laid out in pans, I personally choose to pick the specific colors I need and arrange them on my plate. This method gives me a clear view of my color palette and helps me stay focused on the colors I'm using.

I've also noticed that when you squeeze gouache paints from tubes onto pans and let them dry, they become more stiff and less easy to reuse with water. But hey, this is just my personal preference. When I use gouaches straight from the tubes, I know exactly how they feel and behave. You'll learn about these nuances over time.

Example of palette with pans

Conclusion

So, with the topic on plates and palettes wrapping up, we've reached the end of this blog. While there are numerous options and alternatives for materials in jewelry drawing, the ones I've shared are my go-to choices. Of course, I have plenty more materials and tips and tricks to share, but that's for another time. I aimed to provide a detailed yet some what of a brief overview of what I consider the essential basics for drawing jewelry, whether you're an aspiring jewelry designer or a seasoned gouache enthusiast.

I sincerely hope these two blog posts have been helpful for anyone seeking information on drawing jewelry and the necessary tools. Keep exploring and working on your skills!